01/01/2024

You know someone is immersed in their craft deeply when they take steps to learn about their craft in utmost detail and apply themselves extensively to creating award-winning spirits. Alejandro Aispuro, Head Distiller at Aurora Spirit Distillery tells us his story, and about the joys and challenges of creating whiskies in one of the coldest climes in the world.

Alejandro, how did you end up in the spirits industry and work your way up to becoming the head distiller at Aurora Spirit Distillery?

Well, that’s a long story really, but the short of it would be that I used to work with mezcal producers in rural regions of Mexico. Of course, before that, there was already an intention to work in the spirits industry, but back then I didn’t know how far down the rabbit hole I was going to go. At first, I was just trying to understand the production methods and traditions surrounding mezcal to better represent the producers and educate the consumers. However, I started asking too many questions. What were they achieving in distillation and why were the cuts made at certain points? What exactly was happening in fermentation and why did [it] not work sometimes? You get the idea… And then I started coming across a lot of different contradictions and myths. For example, some producers said methanol was in the heads and others in the tails, or that somehow mezcal was the most “pure” type of spirit. A lot of things didn’t add up and it was clear there was an opportunity for higher education.

My first steps towards getting some spirits education were to take specialized courses in mezcal, which eventually lead to courses in agriculture, botany, and even mixology. But the first real breakthrough comes when I learn about the General Certificates and Diplomas from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling (IBD) in Scotland. I went to take the GC and it left me with a lot more questions than I had before, which to me means it was a great success. Now my eyes were opened to topics such as microbiology and thermal dynamics, and my fascination for flavors and aromas had grown into a full-blown obsession that mixed sensory perceptions with chemistry. Yes, I’m a nerd. So the next step was to go back to Scotland, this time to Heriot-Watt University, to study an MSc in Brewing and Distilling. This led to experimentation with Scotch Whisky, Gin, and other spirits. COVID came and I eventually had to go back to Mexico where I returned to consulting for brands of Mexican Whiskey and Mezcal. But eventually, I was offered to be the head distiller at Aurora, and it has been an amazing opportunity.

From Mexico City to Norway, how did that happen?

With a lot of hard work and against many discriminatory practices in the industry. Many of my previous job applications had been denied because I require a visa to work in the UK and EU, but I kept on looking for opportunities and trying to find the right one. Eventually, I was contacted by a colleague from the MSc at Heriot-Watt, who is the head of R&D at Aurora. He alerted me about the opportunity and asked if I would be interested. I know there were other candidates for the job, so when the final offer came in I was thrilled to accept it and excited to move to the Arctic.

What is your involvement with Agavache?

I co-founded Agavache back in 2015 and I’m the lead consultant for all production processes and technical inquiries. We help producers solve issues they might be experiencing such as problematic fermentations, chemical analyses outside of the allowed ranges, implementing good practices at their distilleries, and finding solutions for the use of their by-products. I have also been involved in making recipes for some agave spirit and whiskey brands, as well as helping to plan distilleries and their operations.

[[relatedPurchasesItems-49]]

I believe Benedict is doing a lot of different yeast experiments at Bivrost. Does anything look promising to incorporate into future releases?

There is a lot of promise there. Benedict, through his company Spheric Spirits, has several batches of experimental whisky which they co-own with Aurora at 50/50. However, these spirits are not necessarily Bivrost, and the plan is to release them through joint efforts. You can expect some amazing, micro-batch, special releases, but I won’t spoil any surprises.

Tell me more about the Solera system of aging different liquids at different ages. It sounds like a complex undertaking that might require keeping a close watch with a lot of sampling and taking records. What goes into it and what are you looking to get out of it?

The Solera is an incredible project. It will take years before it is ready for a first bottling, but the long wait is worth it. We currently have three layers of casks and plan to follow the tradition of only bottling part of the lower casks, then taking the spirit in the middle level down to refill the bottom, and the top down to refill the top. Eventually, we will only need to add fresh spirit to the top level, but at the moment we are still working our way to filling all of the casks up. It will take time, sampling, and records, yes, but one day we will have a little bit of some of the oldest whiskies produced at Aurora as part of the mix inside those casks. The complexity and flavors that will come out of it will be something to marvel at.

The Arctic barley project - is that still going? What are the results from the latest batch?

Yes, it’s still going. The Arctic Barley Project is not a one-off thing, it’s a yearly batch that will be part of the core of Aurora. As such, I don’t believe it should be treated as a “result-based” spirit. It’s about capturing the flavors and characteristics of the Arctic in liquid form. It’s a long-term project, with low quantities produced and grown in extreme conditions, but it’s exactly those conditions and its rarity which make it unique. It’s delicious, beautiful, and full of story. 

Tell us about what went behind creating the award-winning Helheim.

Helheim, one of the underworlds of the dead, was a project that I poured a lot of care and sentiment into. The style selected for the release had been set long before I arrived at Aurora, so I knew it had to respect both the Crocodile Char and the Ex-Islay elements. It came down to finding both balance and deliciousness within those styles and the available casks. 

I wrote a blog post on the personal approach to it; my relationship with Death and how it influenced my work in Helheim, but in the end it’s about making something that you hope others will also find delicious and being happy with what you have done. Could I have done better given the ingredients, stock, and style guidelines? I believe not. I believe it was the best blend possible and that it respects the style of the Nine World releases for Bivrost.

Take us through your process of blending.

The first stage would be selecting the casks that can be potential ingredients. This is done both by looking at the warehouse management software and stock list and most importantly, by walking around the warehouse and getting a good sense of the casks. Once there is a preliminary selection, samples are drawn from them and then you can start to get to know them. I usually take some days to taste through them in the morning, headphones on, and a notebook at hand. I make notes on their aromas and flavors and start selecting my favorites, which might not necessarily mean they will work in the blend. It’s important to explore how they smell and taste, but equally as important to explore how they work together. So I begin making preliminary blends,  respecting the style guidelines to make a base blend. Once that base is found, I begin to look for the elements that will make it unique and finally, I try to bring everything into balance.

Another key part of this process happens in between the different stages. Between sampling the casks and making multiple preliminary blends, while trying to get to the base blend and then finding the unique accents in it. At every stage, I ask the team for their opinions on the whisky and I do my best to listen. Sometimes, one of them will mention that they like or don’t like a particular element, so that focuses my attention on those details and makes me explore them more. Could we go stronger on a certain flavor? Have we gone too far? Their opinions are vital to the process.

What are the biggest challenges you face right now?

The biggest challenges that Aurora faces right now are probably the infrastructure in our remote part of the world and the challenges innate to growing production and developing distillery. On one hand, the infrastructure and connectivity challenges are natural for our location; snowstorms and avalanches can close the roads for the ferries and leave us stranded for days, delaying deliveries or complicating pick-ups. I don’t believe it’s my place to talk about Norwegian politics, but I have seen some projects that would make a lot of sense for the connectivity of the region (and further to the North) and they don’t seem to be getting the attention they deserve.

On the other hand, as Aurora begins to dedicate itself more to producing all the whisky in-house, there will be many challenges to take on. From expanding the site to adapting the product portfolio and everything in between, I fully believe that the team and management are up to the task to make Aurora and Bivrost better in the years to come.

What steps do you take to become more sustainable?

Aurora has recently applied to some sustainable initiatives and certifications, it’s a long road but the first steps have been taken. The first actions are to reuse the water from our processes and to harness the heat they can provide. The distillery is built above a military bunker, and the aquavit is aged in it, so rerouting some of our heat to warm the space up will not only give that precious resource a second use but will also improve the conditions in which the aquavit is aged.

What are your 5-year goals for Aurora?

There’s a lot to be done, but the top 3 goals would be:

Increase and secure stock for long-term planning and future releases.

Finding a defining style for Bivrost, both from the barrels and from the production process.

To establish it as one of the most recognizable distilleries in the New World Whisky category.

What is your favorite part of working at the distillery?

Walking outside the building and seeing orcas or dolphins swim by. Honestly. I could say the blending or spending time in the warehouse is my favorite part but the enormity and beauty of nature will always fill me with awe and respect.

What’s been your career highlight during your time in the industry?

Haha, that seems a bit unfair as my career has been relatively short, but I would say that finding out Helheim had won two gold medals has been one of the best highlights so far. Arriving at Aurora I mentioned to the CEO and the board of directors that I was aiming to get a gold medal with the whisky, I just didn’t expect that we would achieve it so soon. It’s great and the pressure that it puts on future releases keeps me motivated.

What do you do when you are not distilling?

There is this beautiful concept in Norway called the “right to roam” and to me it’s both a right and an ideology. Going on walks, exploring nature, harvesting berries and mushrooms, it’s all amazing, and it creates bonds with the land we live in. I don’t do much skiing, but roaming and fishing are activities I enjoy. 

What is your favorite music and what drink goes with it?

Ah, leaving the most difficult question for the end. I love music, used to play in an orchestra, and grew up in a family that always played multiple instruments in our family meetings. My secret blending playlist includes a lot of bebop jazz, but if I had to choose a type of music and a drink, I would settle with either one of two options: my brother Juan Pablo Aispuro has recorded some albums (and produced many others) so I would choose one of his playlists and pour some mezcal; or I would put on some rock and R&B (something like Vintage Trouble, The California Honeydrops, or Lake Street Drive) and pour some whisky.